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Linking top Greek wine producers, wine merchants abroad, and wine consumers.
We spent two hours tasting and discussing the wines. It was extremly interesting to see how a busy Master of Wine with lots and lots of tasting experience is evaluating the wines. Julia has a great personality and shared all her thoughts. She liked all the wines and of course wrote down her tasting notes in private, so no insights from me on scores etc ;) But this was not the reason I wanted to meet her anyway. I wanted to show her wines from Greece that only few people know abroad. Wines that show their terroir. Wines one can talk about for more than just a few minutes. I believe I have succeeded in doing so. I can only reveal that Joris, who tried all wines before decanting them, was extremly fond of the Parparoussis Taos and the Kokkalis Trilogia. Julia commented on the Papayianni white that she was impressed with the density and the aromas of the wine (note: the vines are all still very young, as this is a fairly new estate), and that the world needs more wines like this in a similar price range.
When we finished the tasting after two hours, I left the opened wines with Joris to enjoy them with his staff. I had to rush back to my room, where the DVD I had put on for my children just before I met with Julia had long finished. Luckily they were tired out from the days before and had gone to bed.
Julia, thanks for giving me the opportunity to show you some Greek wines! I had a great time that evening. Joris, thank you so much for your kind help, it was appreciated a lot!
On the 4th March I had an appointment to meet Apostolis Thimiopoulos at his family's estate in Trilofo, about 15km south of Naoussa. I arrived a bit early and was greeted by his father, who took me straight into the family's house where his wife prepared home made food. While we dipped our forks into at least 6 or 8 different dishes, Apostolis' father told me a lot about their work in the vineyards. I learned many new quite technical Greek winemaking terms :) He also went to the cellar and opened a magnum of 2000, from a time where the wine received no oak treatment at all. The wine was still very fresh and showed a lovely pure fruit aroma. I admired it. The winery produces only one label: Ghi ke Uranos, 100% Xinomavro. Ever since Apostolis, who studied oinology in Athens, arrived at the winery to help his father, this wine has been an instant success story. It is a true terroir wine and is compellingly elegant in style. There is next to no interfearence in the winery, all the work takes place in the vineyards. When Apostolis arrived at the winery, he showed me a detailed map of the vineyards included in the Naoussa area. The map showed the different soil structures, and the Thimiopoulos' vineyards showed a remarkable variety of stony and chalky soils. He took me for a walk through the vineyards, and showed me the different soils - amazingly, the soils in the vineyards are structured like a mosaic - blue here, red there, white chalk two rows down - just incredible. Apostolis knows every spot in the vineyards, and he is a big believer in terroir. He is already experimenting with single vineyard samples. He is also a true believer when it comes to grape varieties. "Xinomavro is the grape of the Naoussa area, here exists the terroir for this grape. Why on earth has it become such a fashion to plant international grape varieties? We will always just work with Xinomavro in our vineyards, because this is why we can create great wines, because the terroir can work magic here." His father fully supports this view. The pair is nearly obsessed with quality - and the results show. The first Ghi ke Uranos appeared with the 2004 label, it swiftly made headlines. I was fortunate enough to taste the 2005, 2006, 2007 and barrel 2008 at the estate, the quality is there in every vintage, but the 2008 seems to be yet another step up. Apostolis even was eager to show me different cask samples of the 2008, one that was just racked, one that had just spent some days with the skins... The wines are extremly elegant - no over-ripeness, no tricks, just simply purity. Today I experienced first hand that great terroir exists in Greece. |
Apostolis Thimiopoulos arranged for a visit at his friend Yiannis Dalamara in Naoussa. The Dalamara family has been involved in wine production since the 1840s. The winery today is still family-run and the production is totally organic. Yiannis and his wife Katerina, together with their son, live and breath their work in the vineyards. They also transformed part of their estate into a beautiful small wine museum, with old tools and barrels used and made by Yiannis' grandfather. The tasting and dining room is very cozy with a lot of attention to bring a rural setting alive. I had a lovely time there, tasting the wines, while Katerina used the open fire place to grill cheese, sausages and meats. Yiannis showed us a range of different vintages, including barrel samples, of his wines. The white is a blend of Malagousia, Assyrtico and Roditis. Yiannis produces an unoaked version, as well as a barrel fermented one. The wines were aromatic, textured and showed broad flavours. The oaked version just had a hint of oak, as Yiannis wishes to add a very carefully grafted different dimension to the wine. There are two red wines, first the Ampelonas Dalamara, a blend of 80% Xinomavro with 20% Merlot. The flagship wine is called Palaiokalias and is 100% Xinomavro. Both wines are very elegant in style and show full aromas of red berries. The Ampelonas had a very nice coffee and chocolate nose, being influenced by the Merlot blend. The Palaiokalias showed off magnificent pure fruit flavours. After 3 hours, Yiannis said that the 2006 Palaiokalias just had opened up completly. He is a big believer that Xinomavro needs a lot of time and air to bring out its best. In his view, it is wasted if drunk straight after being opened. The Dalamara winery is a serious producer and it is well worth seeking their wines out. |