

Linking top Greek wine producers, wine merchants abroad, and wine consumers.





On the 26th of May I had the great pleasure of presenting some Greek wines to Joanna Locke, Master of Wine, at the Wine Society in Stevenage, UK. I woke up at 04:30 am and made my way to the Athens airport. I arrived in London Stansted at 09:30 am local time, boarded the Stansted Express into London Liverpool Street, took the tube to London's King Cross and from there the train to Stevenage. I met Jo at 1 pm and presented three wines each from two estates: From Parparoussis (1) Nemea Reserve 2003 (100% Agiorgitiko), (2) Taos 2004 (100% Mavrodaphne), (3) Muscat of Rio 2003 (sweet white from 100% Muscat of Rio of Patras). I also showed the Kokkalis range: (1) Mova 2006 (Agiorgitiko, Cabernet Sauvignon), (2) Syrah 2006 (100% Syrah), Trilogia 2006 (100% Cabernet Sauvignon). All wines showed very well. Interestingly enough, the styles of the wines from the two winemakers come from opposite spectrums: Parparoussis produces very elegant, feminin wines that focus on the pure fruits, Kokkalis wines are powerful, concentrated and masculine. However, all wines were very seductive. The bottles were opened there, so the wines really did not have time to settle and breathe properly. Luckily Jo told me that she likes to evaluate wines over a minimum 24-hour period, revisting them several times to see how they evolve. I find this to be a very honest process of evaluating wines, rather than just having a quick swirl and sip.
Yiannis Tselepos invited me for talk and food to his estate in Rizes, very close to Tripoli, on the 19th of May. It was a hot, but extremly windy day, I could not go faster than 120 km/h on the motorway. After I arrived at the winery, Yiannis took more than an hour to show me his vineyards. The altitude is about 800 m, and there are a total of 50 ha, plus another 30 ha of forest. On the photo on the left the city of Tripoli can be seen in the background. I turned around in any direction, and all I could see was the vast territory of the Tselepos estate. It it an amazing sight! Up to 25 employees work in the vineyards, and all work is done by hand. For example, weed is pulled out by hand only - quite a task for such a large area. Grape varieties are Moschofilero, Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay, newly planted Riesling, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The soil consists of schist. Tselepos also owns 8.5 ha of the Driopi Estate in Nemea, where Agiorgitiko is planted. Included in the vineyards in Rizes is a beautifully built private church with hand-painted pictures of wine related biblical themes. In addition, a mill from 1780 was restored, this is yet another showpiece. Yiannis told me that he wanted to show me everything so that I get a feeling for the man behind the label, he does not usually show people around. I was very impressed, the love for even the smallest detail cannot be missed. He lives and breathes wine and certainly is extremly passionate. We then drove to Tripoli and had a light lunch in the oldest taverna in town (1933). Food was perfect, oven baked anchovies, beet and wild mountain herbs. We drove back to his estate and had coffee there. He is also currently building a new winery plus cellar from scratch. Work should be completed this year. As a summary, this is a very serious estate where the passion for wine is matched by the meticulous work in the vineyards. 
On the 15th May I made my way to Skafidia to pay another visit to Christos Kokkalis. It is always such a pleasure to spend some time with him! The car journey was very pleasant. May is such a nice month, as everything is in full bloom, the landscapes are beautiful to look at. After the 3 1/2 hour journey, I arrived around midday. Christos's sister and niece had stayed with him for the last days and we drove them to Pyrgos where they wanted to catch the bus to Athens. Afterwards we made our way to the sea and had a nice lunch at a fish taverna, which was followed by a relaxing siesta at Christos's house. Late afternoon we drove to his vineyard, the one where I planted vines in March. They had already grown nicely, most were about 20 to 30 cm in height. Christos showed me how to thin out the vinebranches and leaves from the Syrah vines that were growing vigorously (they were planted 7 years ago). I love learning about the work in the vineyards, and I feel very privileged having such a great teacher! At about 10 pm we went to a restaurant where some friends of Christos were waiting for us. It was a great evening, I had brought along a bottle of Kuehling-Gillot Kreuz Spaetburgunder 2006, which Christos really liked. He brought a bottle of his Trilogia 2006 - what a wine! The nose was full of cassis and coffee, it is extremly rich on the palate with bags of tannins. This is the best Trilogia to date, we were all struck by its density. Christos also brought a bottle of Volnay Marie Mairgnot Les Chenes Premier Cru 1997. It had a bit of a rough time as we served it after the Trilogia, nevertheless it was a good wine that it is still going. I stayed overnight at Christos's house and we went to bed about 1:30 am. In the morning we had breakfast and coffee, some more discussions about Greek wines, and I left at 09:30 am and made my way back home.
This morning I was visited at my home by Kostis Dalamara from the Dalamara Estate in Naoussa. The Dalamara Estate has been handed down from generation to generation since the 1840s. Kostis is the 22-year old son of Yiannis and Katerina. He is currently living in Beaune, he studied oinology for two years in France and is now completing a further year of work there. 80% of the grapes grown at the 3 ha Dalamara Estate are Xinomavro, with further plantings of Assyrtico, Malagousia, Roditis, Merlot, Cinsault and Negoska. The work is fully biological. Kostis is driven by a desire to learn, it was his own choice to go to France and study there. He spent 6 months in the country to learn the language, before starting university. He is a great example of the next generation of vintners who will stop at nothing to further improve the quality of the wines produced. He kindly brought a bottle of 100% Negoska 2007, that was just bottled 6 weeks ago. Only about 600 bottles of this wine are produced, and all of them are sold to the US. We had a very good discussion about Greek wines and I am really glad that he made the effort to visit me.
I just returned from Nemea, where I once again visited Ktima Palivou. I spend about two hours with Georgos Palivos, and time just flew by. He took me to his vineyards that start at about 320 m above sealevel and go all the way up to 520 m. The soil is extremly stony and rocky, the vines certainly struggle to dig their roots deep down. Georgos told me that they had to split lots of large rocks with heavy machinery before any vines could be planted. One can see the terroir and the different coloured soil structures just by looking down the slopes. These are the perfect soil conditions for Agiorgitiko. The top part of the plot is used only for the premium wine. Georgos has also used a small plot at the lower end to create a "vine museum". He has planted up to 60 extremly rare vine varieties, including the white Xinisteri. After we went back to his estate, he presented me with a barrel sample of an experimental wine - only 3 barrels exist. It is two thirds Agiorgitiko, blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. The nose was very open and bursting with fruit aromas, spices and vanilla. It was full bodied and dense, the finish went on and on - a great wine in the making. He also let me presented me with another barrel sample - again only 3 barrels produced - of a 1999 sweet red wine. 10 years and still in barrel! This was even more complex, with a very open nose of red fruits and raisins, great on the palate, again full bodied, but also with a very elegant signature. The finish was extremly long and it was hard resisting to empty the glass (but it was just midday). Two great wines!
On the 1st May I met Christos Kokkalis for a late afternoon lunch at the Codice Blu Restaurant in the trendy Kolonaki area in Athens. Christos was still in town, and we decided to get together for some more discussions about Greek wines. One of his two lucky agents who distribute tiny quantities of his wines in Greece, Kostas Boutopoulos, also joined us. It was a nice sunny afternoon, and we sat outside. We enjoyed some pizzas and two bottles of Mova. It was a very relaxing atmosphere and we spend three hours at the restaurant. Afterwards me in Christos went to have some coffee. Christos is such an entertaining character, it always a great pleasure to spend some time with him. We had some more fruitful discussions, and I deeply appreciate his insights and thoughts.
Yesterday I had the great pleasure of welcoming a number of Greek winemakers at my home. Apostolos Thimiopoulos flew in from Thessaloniki, Christos Kokkalis and Thanassis Parparoussis shared a taxi from Pyrgos/Patras, Antonis Papantonis came from Nemea and Dimitris Gouravas from Athens. The first person arrived at 09:30 am, the last left at 08:00 pm - we used the whole day to discuss the promotion of Greek wines abroad. It was a very fruitful meeting, as many issues were tackled in great detail. My wife and my sister-in-law prepared great food, and I served the following wines from my cellar: A magnum of Zwalu 2003 Neil Ellis/Werner Naekel, single bottles of Masseto 2001, Casanova di Neri Pietradopice 2001, Casanova di Neri Brunello 2001, and for dessert Parparoussis Mavrodaphne 2003. This was a superb meeting and an important step to make Greek wines better known abroad. It is extremly important to work together as a team and I am very greatful for all the support I received. And of course it is always extremly useful to get the insights and honest thoughts of the people who spend their lifetime making the fascinating product called wine!
Made from a blend of Roditis and Agiorgitiko. The colour is a light shiny piggy-pink. The nose is full of melon and raspberries, light but exotic. The palate consists of lots of fresh raspberries and ripe melon. The wine has a beautiful acidity and quite a good length, very elegant in style. The aftertaste brings back the ripe and exotic fruits, this is simply delicious. 16
This is a blend of Agiorgitiko and Syrah. The colour is a bright medium deep violet. The nose is very forthcoming and consists of cherries, stawberries and caramel. The wine is rich on the palate with lots of red summer fruits. The acidity and tannins are noticeable, but are perfectly balanced. This has its own character, it is rich but refreshing at the same time. It is beautifully made - a top notch pink wine! 16.5
The maceration lasts for nine hours, the fermentation takes place at low temperatures, it is then matured on the lees. The colour is fairly deep for a pink wine, the bright and shiny strawberry red reminds of a Beaujolais. The nose is full of cherries and plums. There are lots of red summer fruits on the palate, with a tingling acidity. The finish has a good length, this is very good value for money. 14.5
The Gaia 14-18 h takes its name from the fact that it is macerated for fourteen to eighteen hours on the skins. This has always been one of my personal favorite Greek pink wines: It has a medium deep bright pink/violet colour. The nose smells of fresh stawberries, cherries, and apples. The wine is extremly refreshing on the palate, and it has a juicy acidity. This is a very well made pink wine from Agiorgitiko, and the winemaker succeeded in bringing out the pure fruit aromas that this grape variety exhibits. Simply delicious. 16
The warmer time of the year is approaching fast, and one of the best treats is a glass of pink wine. Greece offers many styles of pink wines, the aromas and flavours of the different grape varieties used are stunning. I will write a mini-series of tasting notes on Greek pink wines, starting here with a 2008 Rodandos from Ktima Ligas. It is made from biological grown Xinomavro and Merlot grapes. The medium deep colour is similar to that of pink rose petals. It is bright and clean. The nose is quite open and reminds of freshly picked strawberries and clementines - very inviting indeed. The palate is dominated by a rich flavour of fruits, very fresh, again the red fruits are joined by citrus flavours. The soft acidity works very well with the residual sugar. A lovely wine. 15.5
I just came back from a 5-day trip to London, where I took my three eldest children for a Easter treat. We stayed with different friends and I took my kids to all the tourist attractions -We spent two hours tasting and discussing the wines. It was extremly interesting to see how a busy Master of Wine with lots and lots of tasting experience is evaluating the wines. Julia has a great personality and shared all her thoughts. She liked all the wines and of course wrote down her tasting notes in private, so no insights from me on scores etc ;) But this was not the reason I wanted to meet her anyway. I wanted to show her wines from Greece that only few people know abroad. Wines that show their terroir. Wines one can talk about for more than just a few minutes. I believe I have succeeded in doing so. I can only reveal that Joris, who tried all wines before decanting them, was extremly fond of the Parparoussis Taos and the Kokkalis Trilogia. Julia commented on the Papayianni white that she was impressed with the density and the aromas of the wine (note: the vines are all still very young, as this is a fairly new estate), and that the world needs more wines like this in a similar price range.
When we finished the tasting after two hours, I left the opened wines with Joris to enjoy them with his staff. I had to rush back to my room, where the DVD I had put on for my children just before I met with Julia had long finished. Luckily they were tired out from the days before and had gone to bed.
Julia, thanks for giving me the opportunity to show you some Greek wines! I had a great time that evening. Joris, thank you so much for your kind help, it was appreciated a lot!

Vassilis Papadopoulos is a sommelier and the co-owner of Kazakos Drink Bank, my favorite wine merchant in Athens. He gave me two bottles of wine to try. Both wines are from the Mercouri Estate. Vassilis tasted some experimental wines while visiting the estate and decided on the spot to purchase the whole production of 500 bottles each. These wines are therefore only available at Kazakos. 

On Saturday, 28th March, I drove to Christos Kokkalis on a mission: He wants to plant new vines at two new plots at his vineyard. I arrived in the evening and we went out for a good meal, we brought along a bottle of his 2006 Syrah. We had a nice medium rare fillet - Christos said that he had shown the cook how to prepare the meat, because in Greece, it is usually cooked well done. I stayed at his house and we went to bed early, as a lot of work was waiting for us the next day.
The 25th March is a public holiday in Greece, and I was very pleased to welcome Antonis Papantonis from the boutique winery Papantonis at my house. The estate's red wine is made from 100% Agiorgitiko and is not easy to find, as a large percentage of the production is sold to private clients. The wine is aged for 16 months in French oak, 20% of which is new. It is very enjoyable to drink young, but can easily be kept for 6 to 8 years.
Apostolis Thimiopoulos was in Athens on the 20th March. He flew in from Thessaloniki and had a meeting with US wine importers at the Grande Bretagne Hotel in Athens. I picked him up later in the day in Kifissia and we drove to my home. I prepared some stuffed lemons and we also enjoyed some crayfish and a selection of cheeses with fresh bread. I opened a bottle of 1999 Falletto from Giacosa and we had a lovely time. Apostolis is currently completely sold out of his 2006 Ghi ke Uranos. The 2007 will go on sale in September, so all we can do is wait for its official release. His export market is very healthy indeed, and his wines are particular successfull in the US, where it is sold by the name Uranos. He kindly brought me bottles of the 2006 and 2007 vintages, both which are stunning wines, 100% Xinomavro. We only had a couple of hours before he had to go to the airport, and we had a lively discussion about Greek wines. Apostolis is very passionate about the work in the vineyard and this is certainly reflected by the outstanding quality of his wines.
On the 7th March I visited the Oinos exhibition, part of the Detrop 2009 in Thessaloniki. About 20 wineries showed their wines to the public. The event was very well organised, and the hall was very spacious. Every winery had large stands, and there were also a number of wine book and wine magazine publishers. The event was special, as it was not overcrowded and the vintners had actually time to discuss their products. I left Thessaloniki early afternoon and drove back to Athens to arrive early evening. The next morning, I drove to the airport and flew to Germany for a 5 day business trip.
On the 6th March I met Christos Kokkalis first for a coffee, then for a 5 hour lunch at the Grada Nuevo restaurant in Thessaloniki. The restaurant has its own wine cellar and the wine list has a great selection. The owner brought us small plates of different food, everything was extremly delicious. We did not order anything from the menu, instead trusting the owner's selection of dishes. We had a lovely time, discussing wines, work in the vineyards, the Greek and foreign taste for wines etc. Time was simply flying by. I spend annother great day with a great man!
On the 5th March I visited Claudia Papayianni and her father at her estate in Arnea, Chalkidiki. Claudia's mother is German, her father is Greek. She started to create a 25-hectare vineyard at an altitude of 650 m in 2003. She organically grows Malagousia, Assyrtico, Xinomavro and other regional varieties. At the end of 2006 the construction of a 3300 square meter winery started. The result is a state of the art showpiece. Claudia is a perfectionist. Her work is driven by attention to the smallest detail. The winery includes offices, a tasting room, a shop where the wines can be purchased, a wine-theater in the size of a cinema room with a screen and a glasswall that opens the view directly into the winery, an area where the temperature of each tank and the whole winery is computer controlled, a large cellar and an adjacent cellar room with space to keep older vintages. The outside area includes a large terrace with a BBQ, so that visitors can easily be entertained with food and wine. I was impressed by the sheer size of it all. This is a place I can highly recommend for anyone to visit.
| On the 4th March I had an appointment to meet Apostolis Thimiopoulos at his family's estate in Trilofo, about 15km south of Naoussa. I arrived a bit early and was greeted by his father, who took me straight into the family's house where his wife prepared home made food. While we dipped our forks into at least 6 or 8 different dishes, Apostolis' father told me a lot about their work in the vineyards. I learned many new quite technical Greek winemaking terms :) He also went to the cellar and opened a magnum of 2000, from a time where the wine received no oak treatment at all. The wine was still very fresh and showed a lovely pure fruit aroma. I admired it. The winery produces only one label: Ghi ke Uranos, 100% Xinomavro. Ever since Apostolis, who studied oinology in Athens, arrived at the winery to help his father, this wine has been an instant success story. It is a true terroir wine and is compellingly elegant in style. There is next to no interfearence in the winery, all the work takes place in the vineyards. When Apostolis arrived at the winery, he showed me a detailed map of the vineyards included in the Naoussa area. The map showed the different soil structures, and the Thimiopoulos' vineyards showed a remarkable variety of stony and chalky soils. He took me for a walk through the vineyards, and showed me the different soils - amazingly, the soils in the vineyards are structured like a mosaic - blue here, red there, white chalk two rows down - just incredible. Apostolis knows every spot in the vineyards, and he is a big believer in terroir. He is already experimenting with single vineyard samples. He is also a true believer when it comes to grape varieties. "Xinomavro is the grape of the Naoussa area, here exists the terroir for this grape. Why on earth has it become such a fashion to plant international grape varieties? We will always just work with Xinomavro in our vineyards, because this is why we can create great wines, because the terroir can work magic here." His father fully supports this view. The pair is nearly obsessed with quality - and the results show. The first Ghi ke Uranos appeared with the 2004 label, it swiftly made headlines. I was fortunate enough to taste the 2005, 2006, 2007 and barrel 2008 at the estate, the quality is there in every vintage, but the 2008 seems to be yet another step up. Apostolis even was eager to show me different cask samples of the 2008, one that was just racked, one that had just spent some days with the skins... The wines are extremly elegant - no over-ripeness, no tricks, just simply purity. Today I experienced first hand that great terroir exists in Greece. |

| Apostolis Thimiopoulos arranged for a visit at his friend Yiannis Dalamara in Naoussa. The Dalamara family has been involved in wine production since the 1840s. The winery today is still family-run and the production is totally organic. Yiannis and his wife Katerina, together with their son, live and breath their work in the vineyards. They also transformed part of their estate into a beautiful small wine museum, with old tools and barrels used and made by Yiannis' grandfather. The tasting and dining room is very cozy with a lot of attention to bring a rural setting alive. I had a lovely time there, tasting the wines, while Katerina used the open fire place to grill cheese, sausages and meats. Yiannis showed us a range of different vintages, including barrel samples, of his wines. The white is a blend of Malagousia, Assyrtico and Roditis. Yiannis produces an unoaked version, as well as a barrel fermented one. The wines were aromatic, textured and showed broad flavours. The oaked version just had a hint of oak, as Yiannis wishes to add a very carefully grafted different dimension to the wine. There are two red wines, first the Ampelonas Dalamara, a blend of 80% Xinomavro with 20% Merlot. The flagship wine is called Palaiokalias and is 100% Xinomavro. Both wines are very elegant in style and show full aromas of red berries. The Ampelonas had a very nice coffee and chocolate nose, being influenced by the Merlot blend. The Palaiokalias showed off magnificent pure fruit flavours. After 3 hours, Yiannis said that the 2006 Palaiokalias just had opened up completly. He is a big believer that Xinomavro needs a lot of time and air to bring out its best. In his view, it is wasted if drunk straight after being opened. The Dalamara winery is a serious producer and it is well worth seeking their wines out. |
The Dionysia took place 20,21,and 22 February at the Zappeion Megaro Hall in Athens. More than 150 Greek winemakers presented their wines. I visited the exhibition and tasted more than 170 wines from 31 wineries, concentrating on estates that are not yet well known abroad, new establishments, up and coming wineries, as well as wineries where the quality has improved a lot over the last few years. I also tasted just a few wines from well established wineries, rather than their whole range. I found a consistent good quality across the board, there were no disappointments. The whites were all good to very good, most reds were also good to very good and some were stunning. There were quite a few newcomers that were able to show good quality wines, even though the vines were fairly recently planted. One can be very optimistic for the improvements that will take place once these vines become more mature. I will be posting my tasting notes alphabetically on an estate to estate basis, including information on the grape varieties used for each wine. There will be a score on a scale up to 20, but please bear in mind that this is included only as a reference. The important point is not the score, but rather the general description of the wine.